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By Nandini D'Souza
As swan songs go, Christophe Lemaire's for Hermes was a fine one. (He's leaving to focus on his own signature line and being replaced by Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski) It stuck to the two main tenets of the venerable old house—luxury and function. Find the finest materials and craft them in ways that a woman can wear every day.
Lemaire wrapped and robed the body coats and tops with scarf-like swoops, skirts with unstructured pleating, extra long tunics, and a palette of soft cream, butter and brown.
The Hermes version of the lacy white dress was less virginal and girly and more sophisticated and adult. Grown-up is a good way to describe this collection in general. There were no frills, just well-made coats and dresses with forgiving proportions, super-fine fabrics and an air of luxury.
There was a bit of the rich grandpa vibe to the oversized cardigans that wrapped pleated skirts, cropped pants and fluid day dresses in crisp cotton.
Lemaire has specialized in an understated chic since he took over as the house's creative director, balancing the more over-the-top showman-like leanings of his predecessor, Jean Paul Gaultier. It will be interesting to see who fills this pretty sizable chair.
Miuccia Prada is nothing if not efficient, and she has proven that she's a genius in the way she operates. Up close, her Miu Miu collection was a smorgasbord of frills, pencil skirts, coats, ruffles, plaid, color and texture. But when you pull back, like looking at it all on a contact sheet, you notice that she's so precisely consistent with her silhouette—a soft hourglass with a defined waist, all polished with an eclectic (read: kooky) ladylike styling.
This was definitely about ladylike dressing, just not the archetypal one who lunches at 12.30 and gets chauffeured around from committee meeting to committee meeting. She's fun, probably collects Tom Wesselman prints and perhaps drinks tequila straight. But she's never uncouth. She's the girl at the party everyone gravitates towards because she's smart and offbeat.
So many of the looks were paired with a great jacquard or damask car coat, often with a fur collar.The best were a set of embroidered navy satin looks worn with leather skirts. Again, this was all paired back to those ruffled crop shirts.
The one thing that also shone through is that Prada has such an unapologetic girly side. All in, she was like a kid in a candy store full of glitter, ruffles, frills, princess-y jacquards and cotton candy pink. Here's to the power princesses next spring!
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Source: harpersbazaar.com/fashion
